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Friday, January 16, 2004
Jeremy's mom got in safe and sound last night. I think that the heat was a bit overwhelming, especially after spending an entire day scrunched up on an airplane. But we were happy to see her and hope that her time here is safe and fun. Its pretty damn awesome really, that she's this fiesty, sixty year old lady travelling to Africa, even though she doesn't seem sixty. We're moving pretty slow today--just a trip to the post office (learned that the postage rates have doubled) and now the internet cafe. I think we'll go to the bank, then have lunch, then visit the supermarket, and maybe call it a day.
Not sure yet on our extended travel plans. Last night we made up three different itineraries and we'll wait and see what Trish's energy levels are and what she feels like doing. More on that when we know.
Otherwise, all is fine, although I am missing my friends from home quite a bit. Hope y'all are well. Oh, my thoughts go out to Sue and Leah/Dianne. Im thinking about you.
posted by Julie Dorn
6:08 AM
Wednesday, January 14, 2004
All these things I've forgotten. Like the necessary extended greetings I have to give everyone, asking about them and their health, their families and businesses. There are a lot of people who at least knew me by sight, that expect a hello. I dont play as well as I should. I get quite impatient with dancing around the point, chatting and wasting time. More often than not, I'll just say "hello, how are you?" and jump into what I want. Not always the most polite, but there are so many times I can repeat the same conversation just to ask for a bottle of soda or extra time on my email account.
Its hot here. I'm catching the tail end of Harmattan, the season where the dry, cooler air blows out of the north which usually brings less painful days and pleasant, mild evenings. Its dusty though, and yesterday there was no cooling relief from the heat. We met up with some friends at a new pizza place, and it was all I could do not to float away on my pool of sweat. Blech. Thank goodness for ceiling fans.
Our car, ooof, our car. I also forgot to mention that it has no rear view mirror, or horn, and the back seats are always soaking wet, so the car smells a bit moldy. It only took five starts this morning before Jeremy got it running. And then it only stalled once. Ive returned to the state where the littlest things please me.
The goal for today is to tighten up my resume, and then visit the three embassies tomorrow (U.S., Canada, England). A friend of mine said there might be an opening at her job doing administrative stuff. I wouldnt get paid more than $400 or $500 a month, though, so I guess I should sit down first and decide if pay even matters to me. I think I just want to cover my own expenses, and $500 would do it, although if I think about it, $500 seems like such a small amount for 160 hours of work each month. Plus, I dont even know if anyone will hire me. We'll see.
Well, we were going to see another Fulbrighter present her research, but we overslept and missed it. Jeremy is going to the archives and Im going home to clean and putz. There's still a lot to do around the place before Jeremy's mom comes tomorrow. (Exciting!)
More later........
posted by Julie Dorn
4:05 AM
Monday, January 12, 2004
Ok, so here's the long story. I arrived at the airport via Leah (thanks again!) with enough time to call Jeremy and chill out. I expected long, frenzied lines and hassles, but instead I found nearly an empty Northwest section. Security was a breeze.
The air in Atlanta felt chilly when I left, and I wore a long sleeved shirt and sweater (didnt want to take a coat to Ghana.) I had curled my hair so I could look and feel pretty and sassy. (Jeremy doesnt really like my curly hair, but I do.)
The first leg to Memphis was uneventful and fine. After a short layover, we boarded the plane to Amsterdam at 7:30. Then we sat and sat in the runway before we could finally take off more than an hour later. I started reading Dan Brown's first adventure with the guy from The Da Vinci Code, called Angels & Demons, and this one was equally addictive and compelling. I tried many times to put it down, but my poor heart couldnt take it without knowing what was going to happen. At around 1:30 am, Atlanta time, I finished the damn book (very, very good) and was ready to sleep. The only problem was that it was now sunup, and time to eat breakfast and watch Freaky Friday. (okay movie except the stupid Chinese voodoo bullshit. Whats up with that?? Why is that necessary?) Anyway, I didnt get a single wink of sleep on the flight and we arrived in AMsterdam at around 11.
I sat on the heater in the seating area (where all the seats were full) and a gal startting chatting me up. She was from Liberia and was chatting with another woman from Ghana. We talked about pop music, American culture, the weather and the holidays until a Lebanese guy who was friends with the Liberian lady showed up. We all talked some more until they allowed us to move to the other gating area. Like all queues in Ghana, everyone shoved themselves up to the front like crazy people and started shoving. No order whatsoever. Argh. I forgot about that.
We entered the next seating area and hung out along the side. Liberian girl was talking to someone in the U.S. on Lebanese guy's cell phone, so when all the folks lined up to board, I just sat with them. After tons of people walked past, I got a little nervous and stood up to board. By then they were ready too, and we all sneaked into the side of the line. I gave the airline lady my ticket and it made a beep when she pushed it in the ticket taster. "Well, isnt today your lucky day? You're now sitting in 4B." Whoooo hooooo!
I've never ridden first class, but its the only way to go on transcontinental flights. Jesus. I sat down in this HUGE ass seat with more leg room than I could ever use, with a foot rest and my own private tv screen. After I pushed my backpack against the seat ahead of me, the stewardess came up to me. "Would you like a drink? We have champagne or orange juice." Hello? Did I just die and land in heaven? I'll take champagne, thank you. Then we got hot towels, and more drinks and some chocolates. The pilot, for god's sake, strolled up and down the lanes. "How are you tonight? Can we get you anything? Are you enjoying yourself?" Pleasant music played on the intercom, and I relaxed into my seat with the biggest shit-eating grin Ive ever have. I didnt pay to be here, I didnt really deserve to be sitting up in paradise, but boy was it grand.
The plane took off, but not before we all received MENUS (if you can believe that) for that evening's dinner (the starter was quail with asparagus in truffle mayonnaise, then we had a small salad and our choice of monkfish and shrimp in curry sauce, chicken with rice, or venison stew, with dessert of caramel chocolate mousse cake), plus a freaking WINE LIST (with eight different wines we could try and pair with our meals) and a gift box with earplugs, eyemask, lotion, candy and other assorted goodies. We had more drinks, our choice of movies and more drinks. I finally tried to sleep and got in a few hours of interrupted sleep. (For some reason, in first class, my bladder shrinks to the size of a thimble...I swear I had to pee at least thirty times and I didnt even drink that much.) I tried not to crush my curls. After about three hours of sleep, we all received more snacks, then a snack of mushroom quiche and sandwiches with another heavenly chocolate cake. More wine, some Bailey's and coffee, some water.......ahhhhhhhh. We got more gifts...a little gin decanter shaped like a Dutch house and chocolate candies.
As we started to land, I realized I knew the guy sitting on the other side of the plane...it was our Canadian friend, Ross (who also got bumped up to first class that day). I said hello to him on the bus ride to the baggage claim area. Immigration, Customs, baggage claim were all easy as pie.
I could see Jeremy through the windows and trotted outside to give him a hug. However, I didnt really anticipate the wall of heat that hit me when I left the airport. Jesus. More than 80 degrees. Oof. My curls lasted about five minutes. Big sweaty stinky tired girl. Oh well.
We waited a half hour for Ross, who never showed, so we took off for home. Jeremy had had some troubles finding our car from Ebenezer, and instead got the car we were supposed to get in the beginning (that had been converted into a taxi, but then repainted when given to us.) I tell you, it's a true taxi. THe car barely starts, the seats feel wobbly, the window pops out of its runners, the door handle is broken, and it makes the most attractive noises. No functioning odometer, speedometer or trachometer. Welcome to Ghana. But Jeremy handled it like a pro, and soon we were in our old house. The ride home felt very weird....things I'd totally put out of my head....chickens, guys directing traffic and yelling, "Come! Come! Come!" while waving their flags, the heat, the dust, the ladies with babies on their backs, the hawkers, the accented English, the sea of black faces, the crappy roads. Nothing was BAD, it was just in that strange space between oh-yes-of-course-ive-lived-a-year-with-this-stuff-this-is-so-familiar and oh-my-god-i-totally-forgot-all-about-that-isnt-that-annoying-what-a-mindscrew.
After spending months in cluttery, busy America, it was a shock to walk into our place. We have little furniture. Few things on the walls. One light in each room. AND we'd gotten this wonderful HUGE refrigerator/freezer in my absence. I kept exclaiming, "THIS IS SO WEIRD!!" as I paced through the house. It had been just long enough where it all looked strangely foreign. Thankfully, Jeremy had gotten the place cleaned and all looked good. I just didnt prep my brain enough. Oh well.
We had a lovely evening, and lovely morning.
Yesterday we shopped a bit at Koala and Max Mart, the two big supermarkets. You can tell that Ive been in American too long, when these two places seem entirely normal and fun. Usually a trip to either would leave me feeling mildly queasy and annoyed...but this time it was like, "Do we need Cheetos? Should we pick up some olives?" and not at all amazing or bizarre. We met up with some friends for a movie at Video Nut (Adaptation....WEIRD movie, man) and then watched Underworld at Ross's. Then we had dinner and played cards and chilled out at home.
After a late morning and breakfast, we're at the internet cafe today. AFterwards, we're going to Lebanon House for the World's Best Falafel Sandwiches and a quick jaunt to the market. This week will just be a re-adjustment for me, with some cleaning and preparing for Jeremy's mom, who arrives on THursday.
Its so weird....the last few months were this really intense time for me...getting to see my family for long stretches of time, and spending long days with friends in Atlanta, and phoning all the friends in far away places, as well as working WAY too many shifts at Noodle. Now Im thousands of miles away, with limited local friends, no tv, no home phone, no home computer, no hot water, no toaster, no job and it really is a strange, strange thing. I miss my friends and family already...I'd fallen into a pattern there that just doesnt exist here and that's a bit sad. Im super happy to see Jeremy, and really like the version of myself that comes out here...more relaxed and flexible, happier and more free, but its strange to pack away my other self, too. Does that make any sense? Anyway, to all my stateside folks....I MISS YOU and LOVE YOU LOTS. Email me lots and let me know whats going on with you. Im going to be a zillion times better about communicating than last time.
More later......
posted by Julie Dorn
7:04 AM

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